Put it in approximately the right place, small adjustments in position are probably OK. Large changes (more than two feet) should be checked.

Hang the instrument on the batten, finger tighten the C-clamp, then tighten the C-clamp with your wrench. How tight? Enough so that the C-clamp won't move when given a moderate tug.

Using the pan adjustment (T- handle set screw on the side of the C-clamp), orient the instrument so that it is pointed in approximately the right direction. The pan adjustment and the yoke bolt (the bolt holding the C-clamp to the yoke) must both be snug.

Using the tilt adjustment (T-handle set screw attaching the instrument to the yoke) tilt the instrument up a little bit. Make sure the instrument is pointed in the right direction, and that the gel frame holder is properly oriented. Both of the bolts attaching the yoke to the instrument must be snug.

If the instrument is an ERS, open all the shutters.

If the instrument is a Fresnel, set the instrument to "Spot".

Using a tie line and an overhand bow knot(!) tie the plug right next to the C-clamp.

Hang the remainder of the instruments on the electric.

Check the plot for any instruments that can be "two-fered"

Plug the instruments into circuits and record the circuit #'s on the plot. Each connection needs to have a rubber band around it. Tie up the cables so that there is no chance of any stress or strain being put on the connection.

Special Considerations:

• The FOH Ladders: The FOH Ladders have cables running from each "rung" to the floor. They are labeled from #1 down. Find the appropriate cable on the ground and plug it into one of the cables running through the wall to real circuits upstage (lettered cables are NOT real circuits!)

• Booms: If you are yoking an instrument out to the side, make very sure the C-clamp is tightened with your wrench. It is very easy for the instrument to "lock" itself due to the cantilever.

• Battens with no circuits: If we need to hang instruments on battens with no circuits there are several ways to approach this. Hang the instruments as usual, and run cables from the instrument to the end of the batten. Coil up and tie off the cables at the end of the batten. We will then do one of three things, drop a grid cable, cable over to an electric with spare circuits, or drop a cable down to floor pockets.

1. Grid cable
Lower a cable down from the grid to the batten. We probably will have to pull the slack back up to the grid after the batten is flown out to trim height.   Make sure to  use a secure strain relief  on the cable  where it hangs from the grid.
2. Cabling over
Tie off the ends of the cables (snakes are usually a little easier to cope with than a gaggle of individual cables) at the ends of the battens. There should be 20-25 feet of slack between the battens. Run cables from the circuits to the cable. Make sure there is no danger of any strain being put on the connectors as the weight of the cables pulls down.
3. Floor Pocket
Same as cabling over, except you find a convenient floor pocket to use. Make sure you have enough cable for the batten to reach trim height!

Other Useful Skills:

Identify all commonly used lighting instruments
Know how to hang/focus them all
Read a plot/port-a-plot
Gel filing/cutting/identifying (size and color)
Identify cable length
Coiling cables
Plug wiring
Electrical Troubleshooting

Downstage Lift
Genie
Fly system

Understand the basics of the color scrollers

Positioning
Cableing
Control

Light board operation

Basic channel control
Patching
Cue writing
Advanced operations

Troubleshooting

Instruments
Cables/plugs
Circuits

Curtains

Where they are stored
How to hang them
How to fold them

Really Super-cool stuff to know:

Headset system

Where supplies are:

Lamps
Gaff Tape & the like...

Rigging hardware & principles
Knots

Sound basics